Weekend warrior climbing and mountaineering enthusiasts have gathered in Winthrop Washington for decades for its clean rock, classic routes and scenic summits.
Climbing in the Methow Valley includes everything from sport at Fun Rocks in Mazama to Peak-Bagging in the Pasayten or Sawtooth Wilderness Areas.
There has been significant new route development over the past ten years and visiting enthusiasts will find a variety of routes for beginners to experts. The focus for sport climbing has been mostly in the Mazama area but there are several crags up the Chewuch and on Washington Pass.
Alpine sportsmen will delight in the easy to access the granite wall on Washington Pass. Routes like the Becky Route (5.7) on Liberty Bell Spire or the Southwest Rib (5.8) on South Early Winter Spire are mega-classics!
The Goat Wall is truly unique and is often the primary draw for visitors. The 1500’ tall wall near Mazama is home to long moderate routes such as Prime Rib (5.9 11 pitches – bolted) and Flyboys (5.9+ 18 pitches – bolted) that were recently highlighted in Climbing Magazine.
Peak baggers working on the Bulgar list of top 100 summits in Washington will inevitably find themselves in the Methow Valley for the dozens of peaks that rise above this beautiful landscape!
“One of my favorite climbs is among the easiest Washington Pass has to offer; the South Arete of South Early Winter Spire. While the climbing is quite moderate, it is just difficult enough to keep your attention and make you feel like you are climbing a mountain. You top out on a tiny summit with incredible views on the tallest peak in that area. While I have climbed this route too many time to count, the combination of a spectacular approach hike, beautiful alpine setting and moderate, but exposed climbing makes this a perfect recipe for a joyful day in the mountains.” ~ Larry Goldie
Mountaineers with glacier travel expertise will pour over maps, drool over routes, and easily spend a lifetime adventuring in the endless North Cascades range. Silverstar Mountain can be scaled in a long day, but many peaks require multi-day trips to access and climb.
Temporary Closures for Peregrine Nesting
Sedro Woolley, WA– The established climbing management areas identified below are closed to all public use from March 1, 2020 to July 15, 2020 to protect peregrine falcon nesting aeries.
~Newhalem Crag East
~Newhalem Crag West (Ryan’s Wall)
Nest sites will be monitored to ensure reopening of these areas once the young falcons have fledged or if nesting did not occur on a specific wall during this period.
The peregrine falcon is a federally protected species under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act and is a special status species in North Cascades National Park Service Complex due to its sensitivity to disturbance during the nesting season.
Sport climbing outside the four established climbing areas (Diablo Crag, Newhalem East and West, and Town Crags) within North Cascades National Park Service Complex is prohibited.
As outlined in the Ross Lake National Recreation Area General Management Plan, sport climbing is only allowed in designated areas and park staff will review proposed new areas. Currently, NOCA staff are reviewing a proposal to include Space Wall, east of the town of Newhalem, WA, as an established climbing management area.