Travel

Pond hockey, the purest form of the sport, inspired the central Washington town of Winthrop to create the Pacific Northwest’s only NHL-sized outdoor rink and a tournament for adult-rec players

by Bob Condor / @NHLSeattle_ / NHLSeattle.com February 3, 2020

The comparison is irresistible and involuntary. At 6:45 on a still-full-dark January morning, an employee switches on the lights to illuminate the ice at Winthrop Rink. The mind speaks without a sound: Field of Dreams. The hockey heart edits: Rink of Dreams. The view from a parking lot windshield: Hard to say, too many tears in the eyes and a larynx overcome with memories of skates and sticks and pads and laughter. It’s pure heaven on ice.

The town of Winthrop (population, about 500) built an outdoor, NHL-regulation size sheet of ice in north central Washington’s Methow Valley (population, about 5,900), starting with a set of used boards encircling a grass field in 2007, then adding the holy grail of refrigeration in 2015. The backdrop of North Cascades mountains is a natural perk of the rink’s site.

Believe it, Winthrop built it and people started coming to skate and play hockey. Kids and parents stream in after school for the public skate (often with figure skating and hockey volunteer coaches on ice), rink manager Steve Bondi’s favorite time of the day along with watching his 12-year-old son or 16-year-old daughter during hockey practices. All fourth-graders at valley schools participate in rink program director Anna Sand free-to-skate initiative that begins with a class field trip, then any fourth-grade skater who chooses to return-daily, weekly, a few times-skates for free the entire winter. 

There is a robust Winthrop Rink youth hockey program at all age levels that takes the ice weekdays and hosts three weekend tournaments each season, including a 16U girls team coached by high school science teacher and part-time Zamboni driver Katie Leuthauser. Community activist and hockey player Jill Calvert tends to a 39-woman mailing list of locals (newbies welcome) who might drive 20 to 30 miles each way to participate in Friday night workouts and games. 

The town-owned-and-operated rink rents out the facility on select weekends (never holidays) to welcome adult hockey players from around the Pacific Northwest. Hence the windshield emotions, awaiting the first puck to drop last Friday in the opening game of The Great Puckaroo Roundup, an annual tournament staged by the Greater Seattle Hockey League and GSHL founder Andy Cole, a dreamer in his own right with an organization that now serves nearly 3,000 players on 100-plus teams in 16 divisions of play. 

Great Puckaroo stretches over three weekends, one each in November, December and January. Thirty-eight GSHL teams compete overall, opening faceoffs as early as 7:20 a.m. and as late as 10:20 to fit in all the games and make time for public skating mid-day Saturday. Most teams and players are repeat Puckaroo participants, proud to say they have made the trek the last three or four years even if they have to drive an extra hour to loop around a mountain closed in winter due to snow and ice. 

One player, Toby Mattson, arrived earlier than most of his Farm Fresh Eggs teammates (there is second team of the same hockey friends group called Real Bacon). He was staying at one of the visible rental cabins just a short walk from the rink. Mattson was dressed in full gear and street shoes. He keeps playing in the Roundup despite a recent move to California for a job. 

“As long as [former teammates] keep asking me back, I will be here in full equipment walking across the parking lot,” he said, laughing. “I grew up watching my older brother play hockey in Spokane. Then I met my wife and moved to Seattle. I was inspired to join the GSHL.” 

An hour later, Mattson entered the players bench gate after a first-period shift of the opening game between Farm Fresh Eggs and Jurassic Puck, which sported brand-new green and gold “third jerseys” made for this Puckaroo weekend. “I’m exhausted,” Mattson said, smiling and not talking to anyone in particular. “I can’t feel my feet. It’s so great to be here.”

Farm Fresh Eggs won two games and lost two games over the weekend, both losses to those Real Bacon friends. Simon Quinn notched three goals and three assists to lead the Eggs in points, but the real numbers are not on the scoresheet or the GSHL website: Quinn is 43. His son Christian, 19, scored the weekend’s first two goals as his youngest teammate. Simon’s 31-year-old twin brothers, Graham and John, donned Farm Fresh Eggs jerseys too. John’s name was simply “Quinn” while the other sported a first initial. What gives? “I knew everyone was doing initial, so I thought I could keep it simple with just the last name,” says John, grinning. 

“We got into hockey because our older brother,” added Quinn during a post-game interview. “I played and loved all sports as a kid, but I got a severe case of FOMO [fear of missing out] when Simon started playing adult-league [in Seattle].”

The family-and-friends influence is an indelible element of recreational hockey culture. Michele Berg, an executive assistant by and in-demand goalie most adult-league nights (no everyone “loves net” like she does), learned about a women’s hockey learn-to-play clinic from an office worker who dropped a flyer on her desk. She started playing goal at age 39.

Angela Yaworksky and NHL Seattle pro scout Cammi Granato share prominent elements of their on-ice origin stories: “My mom put me on figure skates as young girl [same as Granato],” said Yaworsky, 45, a registered nurse and an instantly evident smooth skater and stickhandler when jumps on shift with. “I walked by hockey games and asked my mom if I could play that instead [ditto Granato]. My town in Ontario had to ask permission to let me play on the boys’ team. Girls didn’t play [organized] hockey back then. I was allowed as long as I entered the locker room at the last minute when everyone was dressed.” 

At least four couples, husband and wife, played alongside each other at Great Puckaroo-in two cases the wife’s influence on her spouse and vice versa for the other two couples.

Real Bacon’s Tracey Gauthier said “we decided it would be fun to do something sporty together and my husband [Matt Gauthier] is Canadian-he played as a kid and I decided to learn how to skate.” Real Bacon teammate Will Parkkila tied a tournament game Friday morning with one second left to play. A former elite soccer player, Parkkilla said he decided to adopt hockey as his new team sport because his wife has long played roller hockey, plus Parkkila explained it is easier on his knees after decades on the soccer pitch.  

Not so easy were three early games on Saturday morning, when it started snowing steadily even before the first puck-drop at 7:20 a.m. featuring the Thrashers and NHL Seattle’s own entry, the 32’s, featuring sales, marketing and content staffers among others. Stickhandling was difficult and icing next to impossible. The puck simply stopped within a few dozen feet with any shot or longer pass. Heck, short tap passes traveled maybe inches. Bondi the rink manager said the previous weekend it had snowed “several pucks [deep] per hour” prompting the Zamboni to do a dry cut [basically scraping the snow; laying water would only freeze to form an unwanted bumpy texture] and perform the task every two periods instead of between games. 

All of this hockey love and bonding is made possible by leaders like Jill Calvert. 

“I started by playing pond hockey like everyone else in the Methow Valley,” said Calvert, president of the Winthrop Rink board of directors. “Then a bunch of us worked with the town to operate a winter rink at the Winthrop Barn. We even had a Zamboni. Then we realized, you know what? We have to go bigger.”

By 2003, after several rejections, Calvert and friends (including her sister Laurie) were awarded a matching funds grant by the Washington State Office of Recreation and Conservation. The money was used to acquire land just south across the river from Winthrop’s main drag. In 2007, former rink program director Marc Robertson led a group of Phase 1 volunteers to build a rink with remaining funds. Some glorious winters followed, along with a clunker or two because flooding and freezing the grass field was impossible if the weather warmed too high. One winter skating season lasted just 14 days. 

Jill and Laurie Calvert hit the fundraising circuit again as part of what, kid you not, the Windsor Rink organization called its “Dream of Refrigeration.” The dream turned reality in 2015, with enough to funds to install the refrigeration system: The short-form punchlist: Lay down three layers of visqueen (plastic sheeting), four inches of foam, 16 tons of rebar and wire mesh, 13.5 miles of PVC refrigerant pipe and 37,000 rebar ties. Next pour 165 yards of 5-inch-thick cement over the top, with only one inch of cement covering the pipes themselves.

“The fundraising for the refrigeration system was a snap,” recalled Calvert between games last Saturday. “You can’t believe how quickly we secured the donations [prompting matched fund from the state]. And I can’t say enough about the volunteers for both Phase 1 and Phase 2. We have counted more than 850 volunteers. Remember this is Methow Valley [population 5,900]. We even had all sorts of high school students out here tying all those darn rebar ties. On the cement night, we had to cover it all with plastic sheets and it was raining. Tough job. The best part is everyone had a smile on their faces. We all know it has been worth it.”

by Meri-Jo Borzilleri  | re-posted from here

Within an hour of our arrival at our winter wonderland in Winthrop’s Sun Mountain Lodge, I had clicked into my Nordic skate skis and Ron had cinched down his snowshoes. Our luggage, stashed in our room with a majestic view of the Methow’s Virginia Ridge, lay mostly unpacked. After a five-hour drive from western Washington to the other side of the North Cascade Mountain Range, neither we—nor a fast-disappearing January day—could wait. Winter was calling. Spend any time on the coastal side of Washington state, and you find out quickly that escapes to the eastern “dry side” are key to mental health during gray, soggy western Washington winters. Our coastal home of Bellingham has its own wonders, but reliable snow—the kind that stays—is not one of them.

Not so in the Methow (pronounced “Met-how”) Valley, the winter wonderland that draws vacationers and recreationists to north central Washington and a high-desert climate famous for dry snow and bluebird days—more than 200 of them per year. Ron and I had driven through a pelting downpour the first two hours of our drive that included Stevens Pass, closed the day before due to snow and downed trees. While it delayed our trip by a day, we were lucky the pass reopened early the next morning, capping a westside week of high wind and flood warnings, fog and power outages that can sap anyone’s winter spirit.

This winter wonderland draws vacationers and recreationists to north central Washington and a high-desert climate famous for dry snow and bluebird days.”

-Meri-Jo

We were happily headed to a region occupying a meteorological sweet spot in a high valley of the North Cascades. The valley, with three close-knit communities of Mazama, Winthrop and Twisp, gets colder temperatures and more snow than even higher places because of the way weather systems move through. The valley’s highest point (Rendezvous Pass) tops out at about only 4,000 feet, good both for winter-long snow and deep breaths – breathing’s much easier here than high-altitude winter playgrounds like Colorado or Utah. This year, winter had come late to the Methow, but with a couple of early January storms, the valley was back in the game.

Arriving in Winthrop

We arrived after two o’clock and hurried to beat the sunset, taking the first trail out the lodge’s door – View Ridge, a 1.3-kilometer (less than a mile) out-and-back that allows both snowshoers and skiers. Its steady rise led to a big-sky viewpoint of foothills and wilderness stretching far as you could see, and a quiet solitude that seemed worlds away from what we left on the state’s western side.

View Ridge is part of the impressive Methow Trails network, with more than 120 miles of groomed trails—both skate and classic—hailed as North America’s biggest cross-country ski area. It’s not just for skis, either. The system includes nearly 30 kilometers (18 miles) of dog-friendly trails and almost as many miles of scenic, maintained snowshoe trails. Managed by the nonprofit Methow Trails organization, the 43-year-old trail network is the heart of Methow Valley’s recreation scene, and responsible for connecting residents and drawing visitors year-round instead of just summers, when the valley was known mostly for deer hunting and warm weather hiking, fishing and swimming. “This place used to just close down six months a year,” says former trails executive director and businessman Jay Lucas, who has been skiing and living in the valley since 1980.

The system’s three main hubs, at Sun Mountain, Winthrop and Mazama, mean you can pick and choose. “Because it is such a big system, there’s such a huge variety of places to go and trails to ski,” says Don Portman, valley pioneer and founder of the Sun Mountain ski program. There’s something for all ages and skill levels: winding and rolling hills; flat open stretches; steady climbs and descents, trees and big sky. Kids 17 and under and seniors age 75 and over can use the trails for free. The trail system has become a national model for public and civic cooperation.

About half of the trail network is on U.S. Forest Service land; the remainder is on private land and Fish & Wildlife (USFWS), WA State Department of Natural Resources (DNR), and WA State Department of Fish & Wildlife (WDFW) lands. Since the network started more than four decades ago, some 175 private landowners have granted permission to use their property. “It’s backyards, people who own a half-acre to hundreds of acres,” says James DeSalvo, Methow Trails executive director. “They’re a part of this thing. It’s what makes it so special and what ties everyone together. Without these landowners, this thing wouldn’t exist.”

The trails are largely responsible for making the Methow Valley a year-round tourist attraction, and Methow Trails brings in an estimated $12.4 million to the local economy, writes DeSalvo. Sun Mountain Lodge, which celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2019, is an award-winning, modern gem, atop a bluff 1,000 feet above Winthrop with panoramic views of the Cascades Range and valley beneath. A total 112 rooms are available, including lakeside cottages and guest buildings adjacent to the main, three-story lodge.

The Methow Valley’s first Nordic ski resort, the nationally known lodge not only provides luxury accommodations (its dining room is a rare AAA Four Diamond Award winner and the lodge has won numerous national awards) but is a great home base for winter activities. Take ski lessons or clinics, barrel down the resort’s sledding hill, or go dashing through the snow in a horse-drawn sleigh to an enclosed, fireplace-heated miner’s tent for hot cocoa or a dinner. We rented top-notch skis, boots and poles for Ron at the activities shop down the hall from the front desk. A few steps outside puts you at the Methow Trails trailhead. (Note to skiers and snowshoers: On your return, keep energy in reserve for the final uphill push to the lodge.)

Outdoor hot tubs can soothe tired muscles at day’s end, or you can visit the lodge’s luxury spa for some personal attention. On the main level, a cozy reading room and big game room—pool, foosball, table tennis, anyone?—help keep you entertained during winter’s long nights. Guest rooms have no televisions, underscoring the resort’s emphasis on unplugging and getting out in the winter wonderland.

On our final day, we left Sun Mountain and traded skis for two wheels. We drove outside Winthrop to try fat tire biking on the groomed trails of Bear Creek Golf Course, (where lunch and snacks are available) in its second year of fat bike operation. Its five miles of trails are part of the 50 or so now available in an expanding fat biking network managed by Bear Creek, Methow Trails, the Methow Fatbike organization, and state recreational groups.

The valley’s varied terrain, along with usually reliable snow and grooming expertise, makes it one of the go-to places in the nation to take a winter spin. Fat biking can be a fun cross-training workout when you want to give your ski legs a break. We stuck to the golf course, where renters can choose from a fleet of bright orange bikes. Helmets are recommended. We dressed for a Nordic outing – pedaling warms you quickly – and snow mocs for footwear. On a blue-sky day, we cruised a ribbon of white on freshly groomed trails for about an hour, oversized tires making for a surprisingly soft, smooth ride and a growling crunch on the snow. Next time, I promised myself, we’ll pack a lunch and plan a longer ride. On Methow trails, it feels like you can go forever in this winter wonderland.

Eats

Wolf Creek Bar and Grill, Sun Mountain Lodge, Winthrop. An accompaniment to the lodge’s celebrated dining room, The Bar goes way beyond bar food. Chef Tyler Krost, who oversees both, makes locally sourced food his priority, from the Snake River Farms/Double R Ranch beef right down to the delicious Reuben sandwich’s sauerkraut from nearby Carlton. His from-scratch kitchen turns out fare that is creative and fun. “I just try to keep things fresh,” Krost says. Try the chips-and-goat-cheese fondue to start – the vegetable chips are the best we’ve ever had and dipped into the creamy-warm cheese makes for a savory appetizer. Sustainably raised steelhead is grilled to a flavorful tenderness, the entrée enhanced by roasted Brussels sprouts and bacon crisps that added a satisfying crunch. The day’s special, lamb stew, was a hearty finish to a day spent playing in this winter wonderland.

Sixknot Taphouse, Winthrop. An impressive array of taps includes 13 cider, eight Sixknot’s own cider brand. Try the four-cider flight for sampling. The corn chowder special is aptly named, and sandwiches like chicken salad and classic grilled cheese are worthy cider pairings. For the non-cider drinkers, there are craft beer, wine and kombucha options. 

Old Schoolhouse Brewery, Winthrop. Known for award winning beer, hearty hamburgers and fish and chips. A slab of bread pudding with a mug of Blue Star Coffee are good partners for dessert.

Glover Street Market, Twisp. It’s a market, but also has a breakfast and lunch counter popular with locals. House made mushroom and savory squash soups made for a perfect winter lunch when we visited, or get there earlier for creative breakfast offerings.

Cinnamon Twisp Bakery. Famous for its namesake Cinnamon Twisp, an oversized braided pinwheel of cinnamon roll goodness. Sandwiches are available too and be sure to get some cookies to go.

Activities

Loup Loup Ski Bowl. Visit for alpine skiing, be sure to check for snow conditions. Loup Loup has its own Nordic trails, and a cool sledding “luge” run.

Winthrop Rink, in the middle of town, is an outdoor ice skating and hockey rink with lights for night skating, skate rentals and afternoon discounts.

For shopping, check out Twisp, a small and growing community with a big heart for its artists. Stop in at The Thrifty Fox, an eco-conscious thrift store. Winthrop’s main drag is good for shopping, window or otherwise, with its Old West theme, including raised wooden sidewalks that help with the snow.

Upcoming Events

Saturdays – Guided snowshoe tours (free with trail pass), Sun Mountain Lodge

Jan. 17-20 – 7th Annual Methow Fat Bike Festival

Feb. 1 – Methow Valley Chamber Music Festival Winter Concert, Twisp

Feb. 8 – Ski to the Sun Marathon and Relay, Mazama (start)

Feb. 14 – Valentine’s Day on the Mountain, Sun Mountain Lodge, Winthrop

Feb. 15-16 – Snowshoe Softball tournament, Winthrop

Feb. 22 – Apple Puck hockey tournament (University of Washington, Western Washington University, Washington State University, Gonzaga University), Winthrop Rink

Feb. 22 — Hiplet Ballerinas: Hip-Hop en Pointe

Feb. 28-March 1 – Women’s ski retreat, Sun Mountain Lodge

March 6-8 – Winthrop Balloon Roundup, Winthrop

March 15 – Retro Fools Day costume contest, Loup Loup Ski Bowl

Guest post by wedding photographer, Melissa Days.

As a wedding photographer I am always on the lookout for dramatic landscapes and gorgeous lighting. Lucky for us, the Methow Valley provides both of these thanks to the stunning views of the North Cascade mountains. Check out these wedding in Winthrop WA.

Here are three of my favorite romantic wedding venues in the Methow Valley, ideal for any couple looking to begin their love story in the mountains.

Sun Mountain definitely lives up to its slogan as being a destination for all seasons. Whether you prefer getting married among the sprawling mountain meadows full of wildflowers in the spring, or in a winter wonderland with a fresh blanket of snow and epic white capped mountain peaks. Sun Mountain offers a truly unique experience for every adventurous wedding couple.

Many couples take advantage of having their ceremony on Sun Mountain’s Bluff. Facing west, this bluff provides sweeping views of the North Cascades, and the perfect lighting for wedding ceremony photos through sunset. Sun Mountain Lodge offers gourmet catering, local vendor partnerships and even has indoor reception space to make your wedding day a breeze.

Whether you’re planning a wedding ceremony in the open meadow with Mount Gardner as your witness, or a family reunion beneath the willow tree, Spring Creek Ranch has something for everyone.

The Ranch House, the pillar of Spring Creek Ranch, is surrounded by an expansive gorgeously manicured lawn perfect for even the largest of wedding parties. A short distance from the Ranch House, past the historic barn and rustic wooden bridge, is the Methow River. A fantastic location for wedding portraits and relaxing in a hammock. What a prefect location if you’re considering a wedding in Winthrop WA.

Spring Creek Ranch is the perfect place for a wedding full of romance. As the evening unwinds you and your guests will dance the night away under a blanket of stars.

The DIYers dream. Let the mountains and forests be your venue, no decorating required. Albeit there are no amenities, but saying “I do” on a mountain peak or sprawling meadow is truly an unforgettable and dramatic wedding experience. From Goat Peak’s soaring mountain and valley views, to Falls Creek’s powerful waterfall, you have endless options on how to shape the ideal backdrop for your wedding. Hiking shoes and picnic baskets are required.

Melissa Days is an acclaimed local wedding photographer who is currently booking for the 2020 wedding season.

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Below, you can find more event venues available to rent for your wedding, conference, reunion, or other gathering.

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Here in Winthrop Washington we take outdoor recreation seriously – in a fun way. If you’re making a 2020 New Year’s Resolution, why not set a goal to complete an athletic event among wild flowers, snow capped mountains, and pristine public land? Spend a night in at one of our many hotels with hot tubs to relax those sore muscles. Whether you’re a runner, cyclist, cross-country skier, or pickleball enthusiast, we have something for you. You can also reserve our outdoor rink for your next hockey tournament.

Keep an eye out for more events on Winthrop Washington’s event calendar.

If you’re visiting Winthrop Washington, taking in the western boardwalks and relaxed atmosphere, you might as well stop to enjoy some local wine along the way. There are many great options for wine tasting within a short, beautiful walk.

The Wine Shed

You’ll find The Wine Shed up a flight of stairs above Copper Glance (an excellent cocktail lounge). The Wine Shed has over 600 varieties of wine in addition to a good selection of top shelf alcohol.

Next, you’ll take a half mile walk (about nine minutes) headed south – toward our four way stop. It’s the closest thing we have to traffic light. Don’t worry, you won’t miss it. You’ll take a right at the four way and walk over the bridge spanning the Chewuch River, walk past our Barn Auditorium, Mack Lloyd Park, and the town ball field.

Lost River Winery

The Lost River Winery is a boutique family owned winery that was started in 2002 in Mazama, Washington. The winery has continuously produced wines like Cedarosa, Community Red, Nebbiolo, Pinot Gris and Massif that have received notable awards. We are really proud, can you tell?

Brix Wine Bar & Bottle Shop

After having a sample or two, you’ll head back into town for an eight minute walk (0.4 miles) to Brix Wine Bar & Bottle Shop. To get there you’ll take a right at the four way, and it will be on the right side of the road. Keep an eye out for signs because you can’t see it from the road. It’s behind the adorable Gathered Boutique where we’re always tempted to purchase something new and fun. You’ll be glad Brix is off the beaten path because it offers a lovely view of the Chewuch River passing by. You’ll find ample choices as you select a flight complimented by small bites to round out the evening.

Not done? Jump in the car (if you can do so safely) to check out Sun Mountain Lodge‘s giant wine cellar. You’ll also want to see Glover Street Market‘s underground tasting room.

*Check with each shop for store hours as they may vary.

If you’re into mountain biking, we have some exciting news about a newly opened mountain bike trail for you from Winthrop Washington! Evergreen Mountain Bike Alliance | Methow Chapter has reaped the rewards of a ten-year permitting process to access the national forest for trails. The land is surrounding the beautiful Sun Mountain Lodge.

The pinnacle of the quarter-million-dollar project is the newly opened Thompson Ridge Trail. This is a single-track trail (not dirt road) which is intended to be ridden clockwise loop. It could take some about three to six hours to complete depending on the cyclist. There really isn’t anything like it in the Methow Valley – the views are simply amazing!

When to enjoy the trail:

The best time to use it is spring, or fall before the snow hits. Mountain biking in the Methow Valley is a very special experience. It’s largely undiscovered and waiting for a turn is non-existent. So, please don’t tell anyone, we don’t want it to become crowded like the rest of the county’s mountain biking trails.

What is next?

We hope you’ll enjoy this newly opened mountain biking trail in Winthrop Washington and let us know what you think of it. Next year, the trails association will be adding more challenging trails. They’ll also add an equestrian and hiking trails to the Sun Mountain accessible land. Subscribe to get the updates.

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Visit Winthrop

Did you know that the ice rink is open for winter in Winthrop Washington earlier than it has ever opened, this year?

There’s nothing quite like the feeling of gliding across glistening ice on a pair of skates. Add a stunning outdoor setting, complete with towering mountains and bald eagles soaring overhead, and you’ve got the Winthrop Rink.

Nestled in the Methow Valley, the Winthrop Rink offers a range of programs for all ages and abilities. Programs from Open Skate sessions, to drop-in hockey, to freestyle figure skating, to Learn to Skate, to hockey tournaments are available.

What started out as a frozen patch of ground over two decades ago has grown, through community support, into a non-profit featuring refrigerated, NHL-sized rink.

It’s one of the most unique skating experiences in the Pacific Northwest!

And this season, the Winthrop Rink is thrilled to announce that it will have its earliest opening date ever! The doors open at 9:00 a.m. on Saturday, November 2nd for a drop-in hockey session. The session with be followed by Stick & Puck and a number of Open Skate sessions.

You can visit the rink’s website at http://winthroprink.org/ to learn more and view the schedule. The ice, and its beautiful surroundings, await!

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Article by Anna Sand – Winthrop Rink